The Walk

The past weeks have passed quickly. With the departure of Dr. Sarah Halvorson, I accepted a new companion, Ben Logan. He will be joining me for the summer as my mountain partner. His presence will facilitate the ability to travel freely and safely throughout the At-Bashy Range and the country. Since his arrival we spent a few days rock climbing at Chong Kurchak, a canyon outside of Bishkek before heading to Ala-Archa National Park for a week. The referendum and a venomous snake bite (foreign country, unknown snake species… who wouldn’t want to pick it up?) prevented me from joining Ben and some friends on a climb of Corona Peak. My hand has resumed a normal size and the referendum passed with an overwhelming majority so we were able to spend the past week climbing, brushing up on our crevasse rescue skills and helping with the Intern Training with the Alpine Fund.

Next up, we are headed south to the At-Bashy Range. On foot we will walk the length of the range on the high and remote Ak Say Valley which holds some of the most remote herding pastures in Kyrgyzstan. I have travelled on the northern side of the range, but am looking forward to the adventure of the unknown.

Intern Training Trip

The Alpine Fund, a non profit I have been volunteering with throughout the year, organized a two day Intern training trip to the Ak Say Glacier in Ala Archa National Park. Ala Archa is located just an hour south of Bishkek in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too Mountains and is Kyrgyzstan’s most accessible and popular hiking and mountaineering location. The Alpine Fund works to promote youth education and connect local disadvantaged youth with the mountains in Kyrgyzstan.

Volunteers Maik, Anuska and Margreet acted in place of unassuming tourists while Salavat and interns Abdybek and Aidylet acted as the guides and porters. The group was rounded out by David, Ben and myself (Ann) who were already spending the week mountaineering in Ala Archa. Numerous requests are directed towards the Alpine Fund regarding guiding and hiking especially around the Bishkek area. The purpose of the trip was to provide interns with the necessary skills to fulfill basic requirements if they wish to pick up additional employment through future inquiries.

We selected the Ak Say Glacier trail for the training trip as it is the most popular destination in the park and a likely trail for future trips. The trail to Ratsek Hut and the Ak Say Glacier winds up through a beautiful green valley bypassing a large waterfall before climbing straight up a glacier moraine for several hundred meters to series of small flat benches just above the tongue of the Ak Say Glacier at 3200m (10,560 ft).


Our hike up went smoothly, light summer clouds kept the temperatures pleasantly cool. Abdybek and Aidylet hoofed up a majority of the weight in their packs refusing to redistribute any weight. We stopped near the large waterfall to enjoy a hot lunch of noodles and tea which was not disrupted even by stove malfunctions and a small gas explosion. With full bellies we scrambled our way up the steep scree of the glacier moraine for another hour and a half.



We set up camp just beyond the Ratsek hut, pitching our tents beneath the incredible collection ice glazed summits. Even though temperatures in Bishkek have been sweltering hot, in the mountains nighttime temperatures had been dropping below freezing. The interns prepared an incredible dinner of gretchka and veggies as a small rain squall moved through. The weather cleared for dinner. After eating everyone’s gazes turned skyward to witness the sunset. Peachy clouds were set alight against a deep blue sky as each peak took on a fiery pink alpine glow that grew more intense by the moment.

As darkness fell everyone retired to their tents. Morning came faster for those that stayed warm through the night, a few had underestimated the amount of clothing to bring. A hot breakfast and tea cheered us all up in the morning. Half of the group ascended a ridge of Uchitel Peak while other relaxed in camp before reconvening for lunch and descending back to the trailhead. Beyond just being plain fun, the weekend was good preparation for the interns for mountain adventures and potential future work as guides and porters.

Descending Teke-Tor after an unsuccessful summit attempt.

Korona Peak (4860m) viewed from Teketor

Ibex

THE SOUTH

Returning from At-Bashy, where for a majority of our time we were completely removed from outside communication, it is devastating to hear about the destruction of lives in the South. We, Dr. Sarah Halvorson and I, were somewhat aware of the situation while it was occurring. However, rumors abounded and we were unaware of magnitude of the situation or failed to believe it.

Back in Bishkek widely circulating rumors are intermixed with facts making it difficult if not impossible to differentiate between the two. I cannot claim high validity to my knowledge, nor can anyone else. The investigation of the events on June 10th in Osh, Jalalabad and across the south is still speculative. However it is widely accepted that it was planned and well organized, most likely by the former president, Bakiev and his supporters. The were able to utilize an existing ethnic tension between Kyrgyz and Uzbek ethnicity and incite violence through incredible manipulation of emotion and fear. Beyond widespread burning of homes and point-black killing, many powerful manipulation tactics were utilized to provoke violence including accusations of Uzbeks raping Kyrgyz children and women. Knowing the difference between accusation and action is faint because the manipulation tactics resulted in many accusations eventually coming to truth. It is difficult to comprehend how this can happen. What complicates the events for me is the fact that several weeks ago wide circulation of a recorded conversation between Janish (Bakiev's brother) and Maxim (Bakiev's son) outlined how to create violence between Kyrgyz and Uzbeks. Given this knowledge, I felt certain that the events would not happen since it had been revealed to be a ploy. However I clearly could not comprehend the power of destruction and emotion and it's ability to self perpetuate and rapidly escalate.

Although things are calm in the north, a high level of tension exists as the referendum vote is scheduled to occur on June 27th. The ballot contains two important items to be decided. The first is whether to accept the newly drafted constitution. The second is whether to confirm Rosa Otunbayeva with executive powers until the fall election in October. Despite the individual significance of both these items, they are packaged together in a single vote. The referendum ballot will consist of a single “yes” or “no” vote to either approve the new constitution and accept Rosa Otunbayeva or reject both. I cannot offer any predictions in what events will unfold as I still at a great loss for what has happened in the south.

Life in the Jailoo

Over the past two weeks while violence erupted in the south, I was tucked up in summer pastures of the At-Bashy Range. I have hired a local field assistant, Aizada, to assist in my interviews as my Kyrgyz is insufficient for that level of conversation. However, my Kyrygz had greatly improved over the past month and I find myself actually able to maintain (and sometimes finish!) entire conversations.

I was also joined by another "field assistant" and "photographer" Dr. Sarah Halvorson, Associate Professor and Chair of the Geography Department at The University of Montana. This is Sarah's third visit to Kyrgyzstan and she has extensive research experience in Central Asia. Our time in the At-Bashy area was incredible.

We started this trip by participating in a Teacher's Workshop at Naryn State University in Naryn City, a large town of 40,000 located an hour north of At-Bashy. The workshop was focused on integrating ecological information and sustainable development into Kyrgyzstan's high school curriculum. It was a unique opportunity to interact with local teachers and gain insight into the education system. At the end of the workshop I had the opportunity to run a focus group with the teachers regarding my research interests. I was particularly interested in finding out about how people define glaciers as many of my interview participants in At-Bashy use ice and snow interchangeable, often defining glaciers just as snow. We also had the opportunity to discuss the placement of mountain geography and glaciers in the current school curriculum and in the Soviet school curriculum.
Following the workshop, a teacher from Ak-Muz a small village near At-Bashy invited us to visit. She accompanied us for a day of field interviews visiting yurts in summer pastures. We were treated to a great surprise when her family slaughtered a sheep for us that evening to make none other than the infamous besh-bemak to feast on rump fat, innards and incredible soup and noodles.
We joined my Kyrgyz family in At Bashy for a few days before heading south to Tash Rabat, an ancient Silk Road caravan sari. Here we stayed in yurts for several days, interviewed many herders, rode horses across snow to high mountains passes and were invited to a spontaneous party with seven Kyrgyz families.


Throughout the entire range, yurts are popping up and livestock are taking to the high pastures. Families are leaving villages and taking to up their semi-nomadic living for the summer. Koomuz, fermented mare's milk, is everywhere and is beloved by all Kyrgyz. It is a bit of an acquired taste, but as with all of the incredible dairy products here I am a fan. This past weekend we left the jailoos and koomuz to return to Bishkek and the realities of the death and chaos in the south. Sarah has safely departed for the states. We had so much fun! I am incredibly grateful for her visit which provided the opportunity to receive some mentorship and feedback regarding my fieldwork and to share the experience with someone.

Three Hundred Cups of Tea

I am currently undertaking my official interviews in the At-Bashy range. Through my interviews, I am attempting to gain insight into the ways in which glacier retreat is impacting water security, livelihoods, and environmental quality. This research is some of the first research documenting local knowledge and perceptions of glaciers.

My interviews consist of 24 open ended questions about the importance of the glaciers and mountains to their communities. Additionally subjects are asked about long-term visible changes in land and water of their surroundings and the impacts those changes are having on their lives and communities. I am using a local translator to assist me to ensure I have full comprehension of the conversations. Study participants must be life-long resident of the At-Bashy Range and have a livelihood connected to the natural resource base including semi-nomadic herding, high-elevation farming, hunting, guiding or logging.

In May, I conducted 29 interviews, primarily with herders. Many of the subjects’ families have lived in the area for upwards of 300 years. Answers to questions were varied, but the preliminary overview presents some interesting insight. There was unanimous agreement that mountains and glaciers are important to individuals and communities. When asked about the meaning of mountains and glaciers many people chose symbols of life, wealth and Kyrgyz culture. Numerous people described changes in land, water and glaciers over their life while many other people had not observed any changes.

The interviews are giving me deep insight into rural life and culture in Kyrgyzstan. Most interviews have been fascinating and the generous hospitality of people overwhelming. But a few time, certain interviews have been frustrating with contradictory statements or answers I perceive to be superficial.

Next week, I will be returning to At-Bashy with Dr. Sarah Halvorson, an Associate Professor at The University of Montana in the Department of Geography. I am excited to collaborate with her as I continue my work, drinking endless cups of tea, in dozens of homes and yurts, listening to individuals speak about their lives, views and beliefs.

Rural Life

Life in At-Bashy epitomizes rural Kyrgyzstan. At-Bashy is a village of 10,000 residents located just north of the Chinese border within the Naryn Oblast (Kyrgyzstan is divided into 7 political regions called oblasts). The Naryn Oblast is often considered to be the Kyrgyz cultural heartland. True to this generalization is the only mono-ethnic oblast in the country with an ethnic composition that is 99% Kyrgyz and many residents of the province do not speak any Russian.

Agriculture dominates the economy accounting for 40-60% of the oblast’s production and employing over 60% of the population. Over 80% of the oblast population lives in rural areas, with Naryn (40,000 people) being the only town of substantial size. The Naryn Oblast is the poorest oblast in the country with 42.7% people living in poverty. The average income per capital is just 1,465 soms per month ($37 USD). Due to the poor economic conditions, many rural people maintain self-sufficiency through a combination of agriculture practices and animal husbandry, both of which are climate sensitive sectors.

Group of women making felt in Terek Suu, a small village


A horse stands alone outside the animal market

In At-Bashy, I have found a local family to live with while I conduct interviews in surrounding villages and pastures. The family lives in a typical adobe house. There is no running water, but there is a well in the yard- a luxury compared to walking onto the street to collect water like many other families must. The house has electricity, but in the winter is primarily heated through burning of coal. The family sleeps together in one or two rooms depending on how cold it is. Everynight tushooks, thick mats, are laid out on the floor and then put away in the morning.

The family has five girls ranging in age from 1 to 16. Both the mother, Asyl and the father, Nurbek, are from At-Bashy and have many many relatives in the area. Being incorporated into a Kyrgyz family means sacrificing personal space and personal desires. The area of greatest difficulty for me is the local diet. I enjoy many of the traditional dishes, but suffer from the amount of food that is pressured upon me and a continued lack of fresh fruits and vegetables. Most meals consist of either potatoes, rice or pasta with lots of fat and a little bit of meat. Bread is ever present. And it is always washed down with tea.

I celebrated my 23rd birthday in At-Bashy. My family and their extended family suprised me with a traditional feast of an entire boiled sheep laid on top of noodles and potatoes. This gastronomical delight is the Kyrgyz national dish known as besh bemak (translates into “five fingers” because it is eaten by hand). As the guest of honor, I fed the eyeballs, the tongue, many large white hunks of mutton rump fat and other indiscernible body parts. In great timing, as I was devouring the thyroid the grandmother asked me in disgust "In America you eat pigs right?.... Uggh...how could ever eat a pig!" I was the only who saw humor in that situation.

My time in At-Bashy in May was cut short when I developed a persistant high fever, deep fatigue and deep cough that forced my retreat to see doctors in Bishkek who speculated over many things ending in "ocious". Pneumonia was finally named the culprit and recovery is slow but underway. Despite my father's concerns, I am quite sure my respiratory distress is unrelated to my recent gastronomical delights.

Locals taking break from planting potatoes



The At-Bashy Market

At-Bashy

I am headed to At-Bashy!

FUN RUN

The Alpine Fund Dacha Weekend

Buttercups blanketing the hills, herds of sheep…….it is spring in Kyrgyzstan! This past weekend we took full advantage of the beautiful weather while staying at the dacha, the Alpine Fund’s lovely mountain house located at the base of Ala-Archa Canyon just outside Bishkek. A group of eight teenagers from Voenno-Antonovka Orphanage joined Salavat and volunteers David, Kevin and myself (Ann) for the weekend. Besides hiking and getting out in the mountains this weekend held a special purpose. From this group of kids, one will be selected to be Alpine Fund interns for next year. Selection criteria for an intern includes financial need but also motivation and interest to take on responsibilities involved with the Alpine Fund organization such as assisting in mountain trips and helping with meetings.

After arriving Saturday afternoon and having lunch in the garden, we hiked up the east side of the valley. Everything is green, green, green! We were rewarded with excellent views of Ala-Archa and the Aiygene Glacier. Dinner that evening was plov (traditional rice dish) cooked over an open fire in the yard. As the embers died, all the kids filled out sheets indicating their future plans, financial independence, and other questions that will aid our selection in selecting interns.

On Sunday after a hearty breakfast in the garden we spent some time pouring over a world map talking about geography. One of my favorite questions is to ask where in the world people would like to go to. All the kids had different answers to this question and some of them even said they would like to see the entire world! As the sun climbed into the sky we set off and hiked to the top of the Alpine Fund peak, a small mountain located on the west side of the valley. The climb up was hot, but a steady breeze kept us cool on the summit. The kids were thrilled to look north into Kazakhstan. Overlooking Bishkek, we were all grateful to get out of the city and into the mountains for the weekend. Returning to the dacha, we strolled through herds of grazing animals and groups of Kyrgyz families picknicking. After a late lunch, we all headed back to Bishkek renewed from a weekend of activity, sunshine and spring.

I have been an active volunteer with the Alpine Fund since I arrived in November. The Alpine Fund (www.alpinefund.org) is a local non-profit that works to connect at-risk youth from orphanages and street markets with the mountains. Upcoming The Alpine Fund has a 5km Fun Run planned for June 6th at 12 noon near Ala-Archa park outside Bishkek. See the Alpine fund website or visit them on facebook for more information.

Stable Instability

Disorder and instability have returned to Kyrgyzstan in the past several days. On Thursday, May 13th counter-revolutionary forces took over government buildings in Osh, Jalalabad and Batken- all provincial regions in the southern portion of the country. In Bishkek, small demonstrations were held in support of reinstating the former mayor. Conflict between counter-revolutionary forces and pro-government forces (revolutionary forces that assumed control over the government last month) resulted in violence on Thursday and Friday in Jalalabad and Osh. By Friday morning, the pro-government forces had regained control of seized buildings. Local sources are indicating that the former president‘s family, the Bakievs, may be financing some of the disorder that is taking place.

These recent events are at a smaller level than the events that took place April 7th-8th, 2010 when the government of Kyrgyzstan was overthrown after widespread antigovernment protests.
However, the current events highlight the fragile nature the interim government has.

Demonstrations on both sides are being called for over the weekend. Monday, May 17th seems to hold a gathering sense of uncertainty as it marks 40 days since the events of April 7th and is being called a memorial day. Many shops in Bishkek, especially those with expensive inventory, have cleared their shelves clean and have shut down in preparation. One particular concern is over the potential for violence. Many households have rifles for hunting and from a history of ethnic violence. Additionally, hundreds of guns were distributed on April 7th, when an Interior Ministry arsenal was looted.

With advice from the U.S. embassy, I am delaying my departure to At-Bashy and will remain in Bishkek for several more days. Although rural areas would initially be safer than Bishkek, I could find myself stranded and without communication if events escalate dramatically and roads are shut down.