Transportation

Transportation in Kyrgyzstan is an humorous and often length undertaking. Most people do not own cars, so public transportation dominates. Within Bishkek and other larger towns, people make their way around via buses and marshrutkas. Within Bishkek I find marshrutkas to be the quickest form of transport as they pick people up and drop them off anywhere. This is compared with buses that only stop at fixed bus stop locations. The downside of marshrutkas is that routes can be difficult to figure out and people are often stuffed in like sardines. There are moments when I am certain not one more person could possibly fit inside but somehow they do. Often I find myself half hunched over, with my face pressed into some woman’s purse and my ass blocking half of the drivers view as I try to catch a glimpse of where we are.

Outside of the cities, transport is via long-distance marshutkas, shared taxis, buses, hitch-hiking, horses and walking. Although Kyrgyzstan is not a big country, the winding nature of the roads, all of which are in very poor condition, mean that it can take several hours to travel a hundred kilometers. For long distances, I have often opted for shared taxis as they are often the quickest and most comfortable. For many rural areas they are also the only option. Departure depends on the ability to fill the taxi with other passengers, unless you are willing to pay for the whole vehicle. Speed of travel is contingent on many things: weather, road conditions and most importantly the driver. The driver decides where, when and how often to stop. Without a doubt there will be a stop for a meal in roadside cafes. Most of my trips have involved stops for multiple mechanical repairs, visiting families, delivering packages, fixing flat tires and on one occasion stopping to do a couple shots of vodka.

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Driving safety is not highly emphasized. Passing occurs at the driver’s leisure and the passenger’s terror. Curves, oncoming traffic, or the shoulder of the road… no condition seems unsuitable for passing. This driving style coupled with the poor road conditions can make for a quite dangerous combination. I am certain that being in a vehicle is one of the most dangerous things I subject myself to in Kyrgyzstan.